Author: Susanna Lau

LONDON — There was something surreal about seeing King Charles III, hours after his brother Andrew’s arrest, sit down to watch British Nigerian designer Tolu Coker show a collection titled “Survivor’s Remorse” introduced by Little Simz rapping about social mobility and freedom. Coker’s outing referenced her personal journey from public housing to establishing her line of empowered women’s tailoring. And while Charles (and his disgraced brother) may have dominated the headlines, the clothes on display were proof of the kind of creativity that remains on offer at London Fashion Week, despite the fashion market malaise.Daniel del Valle aka TheVxlley —…

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LONDON — Aaron Esh is joining AllSaints as chief creative officer, a boost for one of London Fashion Week’s key young talents. Esh, who will continue to operate his own label, is set to oversee the British premium brand’s women’s and men’s collections and steer overall creative direction, including marketing campaigns, under chief executive Peter Cook.Since launching his eponymous brand in 2020 with a standout menswear collection, Esh, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, has honed in on a refined wardrobe for his crowd of East London night mavens, where Savile Row tailoring meets Dalston, an attitude that chimes with…

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LONDON — Did the London shows feel different this season?There was a whiff of change in the air as the British Fashion Council held its first fashion week under new CEO Laura Weir, who has eliminated the fees that designers had to pay to show on the official schedule and increased funding to bring in international press.The return of H&M, which staged a three-part show on Thursday night, made for an energetic unofficial opener to the week. But what was most palpable was a kind of collective will among industry insiders to cheer London on as it attempts to open…

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LONDON — Did the London shows feel different this season?There was a whiff of change in the air as the British Fashion Council held its first fashion week under new CEO Laura Weir, who has eliminated the fees that designers had to pay to show on the official schedule and increased funding to bring in international press.The return of H&M, which staged a three-part show on Thursday night, made for an energetic unofficial opener to the week. But what was most palpable was a kind of collective will among industry insiders to cheer London on as it attempts to open…

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