Every time winter rolls around in Mexico, I am reminded of something important: I am not a survivor.
Before the days of heaters and thermal wear, water heaters and hand warmers, I simply would not have made it. God bless our ancestors who got us to this, the glorious future of climate control, amiright?
Yes, it gets cold in Mexico
Alas, climate control is not the same in Mexico. And by “not the same,” I mean “mostly non-existent.”
Now, I know that “cold” is not a word people typically associate with Mexico. Popular images of the country often show sun-baked deserts and beaches, or someone in shorts and a Panama hat eating ice cream on a nice zócalo bench.
But oh, my friends, those scenes transform for many during the winter months.
Take me, for example, right now.
According to the weather app, the temperatures today range between 46 and 54 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s overcast, and sometimes rainy. There is no discernible difference between the temperature inside and outside. At least it’s not raining inside, I guess?
A shock to the system
But if you live in one of those places where the weather is nice enough of the time, you’ve just got to be ready to be uncomfortable during those rare times it’s not nice at all.
I know for a lot of people — especially those who didn’t grow up in Texas, like me — 46 to 54 degrees probably sounds downright mild. Still, even for those brave and hardened northerners, 50 degrees is different when you’re romping around outside than when you’re trying to relax in front of the TV inside.
Getting out of bed? Getting undressed for a shower or to change clothes? Having wet hair? Torture.
Get me out of here!
I mean, don’t, I guess. I still love Mexico, and living in the mountains rather than near the beach (The sand all over you all the time! The heat! Can you tell I’m hard to please when it comes to climate?).
But really. If you have grown up with central climate control and then gone to a place without it, prepare for a shock to the system.
Strategies for surviving cold weather
I liken it to language learning as an adult. You’re always going to have a noticeable accent, and you’re going to be uncomfortable if the temperature is not exactly to your liking. Every time I go to my sister’s house in Texas, in fact, I take a few moments in front of their digital thermostat to marvel — 68 degrees exactly. It makes me feel like I’m in some sort of futuristic spaceship.
So what’s a girl to do in Mexico when it’s cold, cold, cold?
Really, just suffer.
As a long-time resident, I’ve tried so many things to varying degrees of success. And because those of you also suffering from the Mexican cold have my deepest sympathies, I will share with you here all of my imperfect strategies for keeping warm.
Be ready for it
I know this sounds a little silly, but if you’re anything like me, you truly have to mentally prepare. (Well, and physically prepare in the ways I’ll outline below.) On sunny days leading up to winter, store that warmth! Really. Pretend like you’re a lizard on a rock, soaking up the rays for use later on. It’s a little woo-woo, but hey — it beats despair!
And if you know a cold front is coming, get your house ready: close windows that normally stay open, and get your warm clothes and blankets out. You’re going to need them!
Have warm clothing
Most people do not think they need to take warm clothes to Mexico. And for certain parts of it, I suppose you don’t. But if you’re in a place that could accurately be described as “in the mountains,” and/or “central Mexico,” you’re going to want some warm items.
First, never underestimate the importance of long underwear. Thin thermal pants and long-sleeved shirts can really help! Warm socks, too. And if you can get your hands on some fleece sweaters, you’ll be glad you did. I have a great puffy jacket (that I bought at Lowe’s of all places), which has saved me in chilly temperatures more than once.
I often find it difficult to take off my coat when I get home (I try to mostly just wear it outside). But when I finally do, a fleece robe goes on RIGHT away. And for extra special days, I’m not above wearing a hat indoors. I might look like a huge dork answering the door looking like Ebenezer Scrooge, but at least I’m a (sort of) warm dork.
Have animal friends
Snuggle up with those pets, people! Body heat is body heat, and if you’ve seen those “survival in the Alps” type movies, you know it’s the name of the game. If you’ve got a human animal that will let you snuggle up next to them, all the better!
If you don’t have a warm-blooded animal who enjoys snuggling, try for a heated blanket, or just a really nice fuzzy one. I have a few from the Vianney catalogue (I am not being paid to promote them, but I should be!) that are just fabulous and cozy, and reasonably priced. I’ve even got warm fuzzy sheets! If only they sold toilet-warmers too …
Own heaters
This is a tricky one, because CFE bills charge based on how much electricity you use. And using heaters, unfortunately, can bump up your rate so that you’re paying both for more kilowatts and paying more for them.
If you decide to use heaters (I do), use them strategically. Small spaces are easier to heat up than large spaces. If you’re going to turn one on, try doing it in a space you can keep yourself in for most of the day and night. I mostly just turn them on when it’s extra cold at night, but I’ll admit to having one on me right now!
Into baking? If you’re stocked up on enough gas, the oven can make a great temporary heater … and you get cookies or a casserole or something afterwards! Bonus: the extra pounds from all those baked goods can insulate you even more!
Make use of strategic sun and curtains
The way Mexicans houses are built, as I’m sure many of you have discovered, is not for insulation. Gaps in the doors and windows are common, so there’s only so much you can do to keep a home warm. Rolls for the bottoms of doors can help, as can closed curtains for keeping the cold out. But if the sun is shining, open those curtains up and let it in! It can have the effect of “baking” the house — at least until it dips behind the clouds again.
Get some exercise
Getting changed and going to move around outside of your covers probably doesn’t sound like a good time, but it sure does help. At least while you’re exercising, you might actually get to feel normal for a while (as opposed to feeling like a popsicle). Just be sure to hop in the shower and change clothes right when you get back … cold sweat from your clothes freezing your skin afterwards does not feel good.
Have a drink
If you’re an alcoholic, you know … don’t do this. And it’s no permanent solution. But if you’re really, really suffering, a nice glass of wine (or drink of your choice) can warm you up for at least a bit. Honestly, I myself stay mildly drunk through most of the coldest days.
So there you have it, folks. You won’t find the comfort of central heating, it’s true. But snuggle up and do what you can. It will be over soon!
Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.
