The industry is on the hunt for the trend or designer to re-engage bored consumers and jolt luxury fashion out of its slump. But the shows in London and Milan this week are caught between the old world and whatever’s coming next.
On Monday, Daniel Lee shows his latest collection for Burberry, and if rumours are to be believed, there’s a chance it will be his final one for the brand. Burberry has executed a hard pivot back to showcasing its roots – outerwear, Britishness, etc. – which leaves little room for a designer with his own ideas. For a vision of the future, you’re probably better off checking out Paolo Carzana, whose use of natural ingredients and hand-dyeing techniques is bringing new energy to slow fashion, and just in time. He shows Sunday.
Milan Fashion Week is still opening with Gucci, but it’ll be a collection from the design team after the brand unceremoniously ousted creative director Sabato De Sarno earlier this month. Kering stablemate Bottega Veneta, a highlight in recent seasons under Matthieu Blazy, is off the schedule while Louise Trotter gets settled. Jil Sander and Bally, too, have been swept up in the designer musical chairs speculation.
Diesel and Prada, oases of stability by comparison, show on Wednesday and Thursday, respectively. The latter’s executives can put down Versace’s financials and check out Donatella’s latest collection a day later. There’s also a trio of anniversary shows, with Dsquared2 celebrating its 30th on Tuesday, Fendi its 100th(!) on Wednesday (another designer transition here, with Silvia Venturini Fendi in creative control after Kim Jones’ exit in October), and Armani marking 50 years next Sunday.
It’s fitting that so much of Milan Fashion Week will be reflecting on the past, while we wait for fashion’s future to arrive.
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