The fast-moving fashion calendar simultaneously strains independent designers’ resources while feeling increasingly out of step with how consumers shop. New York-based designer Jonathan Cohen wants to find a way to address both.
Cohen is restructuring his namesake business into two separate tiers. Jonathan Cohen Black Label will comprise the special gowns, demi-couture and made-to-order pieces he’s known for, while the new Jonathan Cohen White Label includes everyday, affordable pieces dropped at a reactive cadence throughout the year, with eight drops planned so far. Pieces include cotton shirt dresses, denim separates and satin skirts, running from $350 to $650.
“White Label sprung up from frustrations with the industry, frustrations with how things move, and also frustrations that the aspirational customer has really been left behind,” said Cohen. “I’m an aspirational shopper and used to be able to go to a store and purchase one or two things a season. That’s disappeared.”
To achieve the right price-point and production flexibility, the brand inked a partnership with Larroudé, which makes its footwear and accessories in its own factory in Brazil and previously partnered with Cohen in 2023. Now, Larroudé will act as Jonathan Cohen’s operating partner, supporting White Label with its facilities and infrastructure. White Label will be produced in Larroudé’s factory, with garments made from existing and deadstock Larroudé fabrics. Content and e-commerce photos were also shot in Larroudé’s studio. Larroudé, meanwhile, will take a share of revenue from White Label. It’s a more cost-effective and sustainable approach, said Cohen.
The collection, which will roll out on Jonathan Cohen’s and Larroudé’s sites, is meant to both give shoppers who are fans of the brand but can’t yet afford it a way to buy in, while also giving regular shoppers of Black Label more options and versatility with items that can be dressed up or down.
“Innovation in fashion right now is the pricing structure,” said Cohen.
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