Headed south of the city to watch one of the four World Cup games happening at Mexico City’s Estadio Azteca? Then it’s a perfect time to get off the regular tourist track and discover delicious eats in other CDMX neighborhoods.
There are plenty of taquerías that aren’t far from Estadio Azteca, currently known as Banorte Stadium. Here are five mouthwatering options for tacos before or after a match.
Birria La Huacana — Popocatépetl Mz 894 Lt24, Sta. Úrsula Coapa, Coyoacán
La Huacana is overflowing with locals on the weekends, but during the week, you will likely find a pretty mellow scene. There’s no sign out front, just an orange awning and a long entryway that lets you know you are there. The traditional lamb barbacoa is less seasoned than you might expect if you are accustomed to eating Tijuana-style birria, for example. But the broth is fragrant and filled with spice, the tortillas are handmade to order and the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender.
No one here will speak English, so prepare to know what you want — macisa is a leaner, less fatty selection of meat, and surtido has a bit of everything in it; both options are incredible. Don’t forget to grab a French press coffee while you are there — while not the darkest brew, this is the best coffee you’ll likely ever have at a fonda in Mexico City.
Taquerías Copacabanito — Santo Tomás Manzana 633, Pedregal de Sta Úrsula
Set on a residential street with mechanic shops lining its sidewalks, Copacabanito is a famous chain with locations throughout the city, but it’s also a local favorite, and not a place where you’ll see other tourists.
The al pastor has a heavy marinade that’s rich and just a touch sweet, while the tripe (intestines) is fried crispy on the outside and soft in the center. Their lengua (tongue) is buttery soft, with a trace of oregano on the palate.
Alongside everything, they serve up a half-dozen salsas that range in heat level. The homemade tortillas, cold beers and big-screen TVs might mean you never make it to the match at all.
Brasa y Carbon — Corner of Avenida Iman and Calle Comoporis, Coyoacán
A tiny place with delicious food means there’s always a line out the door and down the sidewalk — expect to wait at least a few minutes for a table. The intoxicating smell of grilling meat calls out to the crowds as they pass by, even on this loud, heavy-traffic avenue.
Chistorra (Spanish-style sausage), ribeye, arrachera (skirt steak), sirloin, bone marrow and lots more options are cooked by a single grill master in the view of the diners, and plastic plates piled high with seasoned meat are passed along. The aguja norteña (chuck eye steak) is tender, nicely salted and holds that warm taste of char from the grill.
The campechano with chistorra and tender sirloin is a showstopper, especially with a forkful of marinated onions on top. They serve beer, sodas and water to wash them down.
These taco places are all so great, you may forget to attend the game!
El Remolkito de Sirloin — Anillo Perif. 5460, Coyoacán
El Remolkito’s specialty is sirloin in all its versions, so don’t expect to find other meats on the menu. Right up against the multilane Periferico highway, the place is lively, crowded and fast-paced, with a dining room on both the first and second floor.
The creamy salsa verde with avocado and the chile de árbol salsa are both fiery additions to one of their tender sirloin tacos; add in a few pickled onions, and it’s a fever dream. Do yourself a favor and order the costra de sirloin, which replaces a tortilla with a delicately thin layer of crispy Gouda cheese. It is one of the most decadent things on the menu — greasy, cheesy, perfect.
Tacos Charly — Av. San Fernando 201, Tlalpan
The crowds at Tacos Charly have intensified since the restaurant’s inclusion in the Mexico City Michelin Guide, but this has long been a local favorite. Expect a crowd already forming a line when you arrive. It will move quickly, and you’ll have to line up twice — once to order and once to pick up.
By far, their most famous and best taco is the suadero, a style of taco reportedly invented in Mexico City that consists of slow-cooking a tough cut of beef in a slurry of oil and seasonings until it is tender and delicious.
The suadero doesn’t disappoint, but be sure when they ask you “Con todo?” (“With everything?” — meaning salsa, onion and cilantro) that you say “Sí, y esta salsa” and point to the salsa behind the glass divider where the taquero is. This is a special salsa they make with a little bit of the meat’s cooking juices, and it is absolutely essential to this taco.
What to know before you go
All these are local places in non-touristy spots in Mexico City — with the exception of maybe Tacos Charly in the Tlalpan neighborhood, which has become sort of famous. They will all be easier to navigate with a little Spanish taco vocabulary and the knowledge that you might be the only foreigner there.
Have no fear: People are chill, and they want to feed you as much as you want to eat.
*If you’d like to look up directions to any of the places mentioned in this article, click here on our interactive Google map with all five places listed.
Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based in Mexico City. She has published extensively both online and in print, sharing her insights about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of “Mexico City Streets: La Roma.” Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at mexicocitystreets.com.
