It’s no secret that children and adolescents have a lot more eyes on them these days thanks to everything from social media to cameras in everyone’s pockets.
This experience (along with encouragement from brands such as Disney) has created space for young people to mimic adults, embracing cosmetics and anti-aging creams.
Now, Italy’s consumer protection regulator says it is looking into the marketing strategies of some of the main contributors to this phenomenon: beauty companies.
The country’s Competition Authority (AGCM) has launched two investigations into Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics for allegedly failing to clearly indicate that their products are not for children or adolescents.
Instead, it raises concerns that both brands have “unfair commercial practices” that encourage children to compulsively buy everything from anti-aging creams to serums.
Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics are both owned by LVMH, the French luxury conglomerate.
“The investigations were opened over concerns that important information—such as warnings and precautions for cosmetics not intended for, or tested on, minors—may have been omitted or presented in a misleading manner,” the AGCM states.
Using these products can have health consequences for young people, including scarring and allergic reactions.
The Competition Authority also calls out Benefit Cosmetics and Sephora’s use of children’s peers to encourage sales.
“The companies also appear to have adopted a particularly insidious marketing strategy, involving very young micro-influencers who encourage the compulsive purchase of cosmetics among young people, a particularly vulnerable group,” the regulator states.
Micro-influencers are typically defined as creators with less than 100,000 followers. Research has found that they can be seen as more trustworthy “regular people” than influencers with larger followings.
LVMH told Fast Company that it could not comment on the pending investigations but said it was fully cooperating with the authorities. “All the companies reaffirm their strict compliance with applicable Italian regulations,” LVMH said in a statement.
The phenomenon of “cosmeticorexia”
In a statement on Friday, AGCM said the type of marketing tactics allegedly used by the beauty brands are linked to a phenomenon known as “cosmeticorexia.”
A study published this month in the Journal of Dermatology and Therapy defines cosmeticorexia as “a culturally reinforced preoccupation or obsession with achieving ‘flawless’ skin that can lead to excessive, age-inappropriate, or compulsive use of cosmetic products and procedures.”
It blames factors such as the increasing number of “cosmeceutical” products, or those that span cosmetics and medicine.
It also points to social media’s influence, a space that can “reward” content about routines and a focus on appearance.
The trend shows no signs of slowing down. The teen personal care market is expected to grow 6.6% or $12.75 billion globally between 2025 and 2030, according to market research. North America alone is expected to account for 39.3% of that growth.
This story has been updated with LVMH’s response to our inquiry.
