I’m in the jungle, and a beautiful young woman approaches me and bows. Her name is Asti, and she tells me to sit on a soft cushion and gives me a gentle footbath with lemongrass and clove oil. Next Asti invites me to lie face down on a table, draped in chocolate-colored sheets. She begins covering me, systematically, limb by limb, with a mixture of chocolate and honey, followed by a sugar scrub — soft, silky, scratchy and wonderful.
I turn over and Asti continues to slather my body. Soon, I am covered neck to toes in a gooey mess. A purifying steam bath melts the chocolate away and detoxifies at the same time. My skin feels transformed: firm yet buttery to the touch.
Then the massage begins. Again, I lie face down, and Asti asks permission to use some Balinese techniques. What follows is completely new. Asti climbs up on the table and, using her body weight, applies pressure to my back, arms and legs. The pressure is deep, and the work she does on my spine and lower back is revelatory.
After my bespoke spa treatment is over, I am enveloped in the scent of chocolate, and I feel 10 years younger. Welcome to choco-heaven.
Rainbow of flavors
My husband, Peter, and I have come to Banyan Tree Mayakoba, a luxury resort in Quintana Roo, Mexico, to begin a choco-vacation in Mexico and Belize. We are on a quest to learn as much as we can about the cacao bean, its history and traditions, as well as culinary and medicinal uses. Who knew chocolate could be so healthy?
The following day, we attend a chocolate workshop at Xcaret Park, where we meet Pablo, a friendly young man, whom Leo, our guide, calls an “old soul.” On our hands and knees, we crush the cacao beans into a paste, using metates. It’s surprisingly hard to do, but Pablo helps me and then adds sugar, dried vanilla, pepper and Chile.
The result is a yummy, mud-like concoction that will harden into a tablet to be melted in hot milk for authentic Maya hot chocolate. Pablo says the people of Chiapas, where he’s from, use cacao beans in many healing remedies. I wish I had time to find out more.
In nearby Cozumel, Peter and I snorkel in turquoise water and see a huge lobster, speckled rays, elegant coral, and fluorescent fish in colorful hues. In town at the KaoKao Chocolate Factory, we witness the chocolate-making process — from tree to bar — and taste luscious samples of KaoKao’s chocolate.
A rainforest paradise
Our second destination is an eco-resort in the jungles of Belize. We drive south in our rental car, crossing the border with ease, to The Lodge at Chaa Creek, located just east of the Guatemalan border.
This destination resort nestles in a tropical rainforest with lush vegetation, exotic birds (we see a toucan moments after we arrive), monkeys and iguanas, luxurious villas (ours is in the treetops overlooking the river), outdoor activities, tours, incredible cuisine, an infinity pool and friendly staff. When you add chocolate to the mix, you’ll never want to leave.
The owners, Mick and Lucy Fleming, are a lovely couple who have spent their lives carving this unique eco-resort out of the jungle. From its early days as Chaa Creek Cottages, which opened in 1981, it’s grown into a full-featured resort and welcomes guests from around the world. We spend three days here and love every minute.
Horseback riding and spa bliss
One of my favorite activities is our horseback ride — two hours of muddy fun. After some trotting and cantering, we stop for a rest in an ancient, overgrown Maya square. As we walk around, the site feels peaceful and holy — even the horses seem calmer. There are so many secrets under this ground.
What better way to relax after an exhilarating horseback ride than at the Spa at Chaa Creek? The staff customizes a special package for me featuring five choco-licious spa treatments: a scrub, therapeutic massage, soothing facial, pedicure and body wrap. My favorite is the choco-massage, which I enjoy on the spa’s veranda with views of the jungle and the sounds of nature lulling me into a dreamy euphoria.
One evening, Peter and I experience a romantic dinner in the poolside tiki hut lit with glowing candles — just the two of us. We begin with choco-martinis: cool, refreshing and delicious. Everything on the menu except the soup features chocolate. A salad of chicken, pineapple and cacao nibs is next. For my entrée, I try lobster with mole sauce — it’s divine. Peter loves his beef tenderloin cooked in cocoa butter. The fairytale setting, completed with a brief tropical rain shower, makes our dinner that much more magical. And I’m still not tired of eating chocolate!
A chocolate trance
Our last destination is Mérida, the capital of Yucatán. We stop about an hour south of the city at a new attraction beside the ancient ruins of Uxmal. Choco-Story is an interactive museum that explores cacao. We join a small group and watch a Maya ceremony honoring Chaac, the rain god. Priests gather around an altar, beat on drums, blow conch shells, chant in ancient Mayan languages and parade by in a somber ceremony.
Afterwards, we view exhibits in tiki huts about ancient rituals performed on Maya temples, many of which involve human sacrifices. One exhibit describes how people would go into a trance after eating chocolate and volunteer to be sacrificed. A chocolate trance sounds nice, but not the other part.
After roaming around Uxmal, we head north to Mérida, where we stay at Rosas & Xocolate, a romantic boutique hotel created from two restored colonial mansions. High ceilings, authentic architectural touches, a cozy restaurant with outdoor seating, even a rooftop bar — combine to create a unique fusion of historic and modern, traditional and contemporary.
In the morning, after a deliciously spicy Mexican breakfast, Peter and I borrow the hotel’s bikes for a ride down the Paseo de Montejo, lined with elegant mansions and upscale businesses. Traffic on Montejo is heavy, so Peter and I turn down a side street and cycle through a peaceful neighborhood instead.
‘A storm of chocolate rain’
After our bike ride, it’s time for my Rosas & Xocolate Experience at the hotel’s cozy spa. When I arrive, the receptionist offers tea and a dish of nuts and dried fruit covered in gooey chocolate. Sweet! Next, I’m taken to a darkened room, where dozens of candles glow and exotic scents fill the air. My journey to chocolate heaven begins.
After a sensual cacao and oil scrub, I am toweled off. Then the fun begins. Two therapists start covering me in chocolate goo, and they don’t just smear me with chocolate. They sling it all over my naked body: a storm of chocolate rain. I feel like a Jasper Johns painting.
Next, I’m wrapped up in a chocolate cocoon while my therapist gives me the most amazing head massage. After being unwrapped, I shower and then a different therapist appears to give me a full-body massage. I am in a chocolate trance. All told, the Rosas & Xocolate Experience is one of the best spa treatments I’ve ever had. I only wish I could remember it better.
All good things must end, however, so after relishing one last flavorful breakfast at Rosas & Xocolate, we stopped by the Grand Museum of the Maya World in Mérida. The state-of-the-art attraction tells the story of the Maya culture, and we only have time for a taste. This choco-vacation has left me with a hunger to know more — about Maya culture and the tantalizing cacao bean.
Peggy Sijswerda is a freelance writer who divides her time between San Miguel de Allende and the Netherlands. She writes about travel, food, culture and wellness, and is the author of “Still Life with Sierra,” a travel memoir. Find her on Substack at @peggysijswerda.
