If it’s true that no publicity is bad publicity, then a Mexico City restaurant wants you to know it makes the world’s worst pizzas. It even has a “Michelin Guide” plaque to prove its claim.
Cavatappi Pizza, just south of the popular Condesa neighborhood, held a party in mid-March to celebrate its questionable achievement, complete with a Dr Simi mascot in attendance, some “Peor Pizza” merchandise and a Domino’s delivery served to guests during the festivities.
“This is truly the worst pizza,” declared the restaurant’s owner, Pablo Irurita, as the speechless Domino’s delivery driver handed four large pizzas over to the kitchen staff for plating. “But you’d better eat it, because our kitchen has closed.”
Savvy marketing disguised as a joke
It all started on social media. Irurita, who opened his restaurant in 2022, has gained a large online following by breaking the mold of traditional social media promotion.
“I’m bored by the constant need to surprise on social media,” he told Mexico News Daily in the days following his bonanza. “I just decided to be myself, and if possible, not to talk about food.”
Cavatappi’s Instagram and TikTok posts respond to one-star online reviews, Irurita sings songs for those who can’t remember the restaurant’s address, performs sketches lampooning the restaurant business and, most recently, invited viewers to come and try the “worst pizza in Mexico City.”
The video, which went viral, went on to list his food’s virtues — no gaudy edible gold or dry ice influencer-friendly gimmicks here, just simple pizza that’s actually made very well.
The video was a hit, earning likes from leading Mexican figures, including Laura Esquivel, the best-selling author of “Like Water for Chocolate.” But it also caused controversy, which the owner was hoping for.
Is it really that bad?
“My closest friends hated the post, even professionals in the marketing industry told me I was doing everything wrong,” he said. “But what do they know?”
“The response from the majority of our followers was great. People got the joke,” he says. “I got messages back saying ‘how disgusting; a cheese that tastes like cheese,’ and ‘I’ll never go there; what’s the address?’ People took it and ran with it.”
“I think it’s funny,” says Australian customer Yvette McPherson, “But you need a sense of humor. It works in Mexico as the people have a good sense of humor, and it would probably get a laugh in Australia. But definitely not in France, Europe or in the U.S.”
“I don’t believe it,” says Mexican diner Yosh Rivas. “The place is stylish, and the award is funny.”
“The positive response has been like gasoline to me,” says Irurita, who added: “It encourages me to go and do more stupid things”.
For some guests, it’s a joke that has gone too far.
Is the joke funny?
“I took him seriously,” said Miguel Irurita Tomasena at the “worst pizza” plaque’s unveiling ceremony. He had invited his friends and posted congratulatory messages on social media for what he had thought was his cousin’s first Michelin star. “That’ll teach me not to read things fully, or believe anything Pablo tells me.”
Regular clients and passers-by might all be forgiven for not looking more closely. The plaque, now bolted to the restaurant’s entrance, has been designed to look like the real thing. The iconic Michelin star and stack-of-tires Michelin Man logo embellish the accolade, which reads “Worst Pizza 2025.”
“I don’t want awards, and if I were given a Michelin star, I think I’d reject it,” says Cavatappi’s owner. “The only thing that interests me is that my clients enjoy their experience here.”
Regular clients say that’s fair enough. “If they’re giving Michelin stars to ordinary taquerías,” said one guest, referring to the awarding of a Michelin Guide star to El Califa del León, “then why not a joke one here?”
“People have been taking pictures, laughing about it, while others have taken it seriously,” says Pablo. “I’ve been congratulated a lot, but it’s better not to correct them. That takes the fun out of the joke. I just accept their congratulations and get on with it.”
Daring Michelin Guide to sue
One fear might be reprisals from the Michelin Guide itself. The plaque may advertise “Worst Pizza 2025,” but it uses the French guide’s branding to attract interest.
“It’s a provocation to Michelin, for sure, and I’d enjoy it if they took legal action. Getting sued by the Michelin Guide would be a huge benefit to my restaurant,” says Irurita. “If they’re reading this, I’m right here.”
The Cavatappi owner is prepared either way. He has a long history of causing online controversy. Before his career change to restaurateur, Irurita was a music promoter who used online controversy to create buzz around his concerts.
In the end, it was the Covid-19 pandemic rather than the online furore that led to his career change, but he has brought much of the same philosophy into the restaurant business.
“People responded to my videos saying that they would never visit my restaurant, I respond saying ‘great, please don’t come’, says Pablo. “If those people are like that online, imagine what they’re like as clients!”
Around 33% of new restaurants go out of business within the first 12 months, and as Cavatappi Pizza enters its fourth year, promoting the “world’s worst pizza” may be a modern recipe for success.
“If you come here, you won’t be surprised,” says the owner. “But you will be comfortable.”
Alisdair Baverstock is the Mexico City-based author of “The Mexican Slang Dictionary.”
